2018 "Dasempre del Pozzo Buono"
Lacrima di Morro d'Albra
For our Marche Shipment we were looking for a great expression of another native grape, Lacrima di Morro d'Alba. This grape variety is still not very popular in the US, but it can make some great wines. During our visit to Vinitaly 2018 we had the chance to try some excellent ones, but we really loved "Dasempre del Pozzo Buono" from Vicari. We met Vico and Valentina, the two young siblings, who own and manage the winery. We especially related to them because they are young entrepreneur's like us, making it all the more special to feature them in our Wine Club. Normally we buy directly from the winery in Italy and import to the US, but Vicari was already imported by a really small importer in Southern California. Because of "exclusivity reasons", we couldn't import the wine directly, so we bought it from the distributor in California. Nonetheless, we are extremely excited to introduce them to you!
2018 "Dasempre del Pozzo Buono" Lacrima di Morro d'Alba DOC by Vicari
Grape: 100% Lacrima
Tasting Notes: The color is intense ruby red with purple reflections. On the nose it expresses notes of red, blue and purples fruits such as plums, wild berries, cherry and blueberry and floral notes of violet. The wine in the mouth is fresh and lean, with bright acidity and soft tannins. The after taste is long and persistent.
Recommended Drink Window: Best now-2025
Temperature of Service: 62-66° F
Decanting: We suggest opening 30 mins ahead of time. Once opened you can let the bottle sit open as you cook dinner. However, if you don't have time to open in advance you can decant for a faster oxygenation. We suggest to try to get your own personal idea tasting the wine little by little and discover new notes and aromas while the wine is opening up. It's interesting to see how the wine changes from when first opened to 30 minutes or an hour later.
"Tears" of Lacrima grapes
Lacrima di Morro d'Alba (pronounced LA-kree-mah / di / MOHR-row) DOC is a red wine made from the ancient Lacrima (meaning "tear" in Italian) grape variety in the area surrounding the hilltop village of Morro d'Alba in the province of Ancona in the Marche region. The name "Lacrima di Morro d'Alba" literally means "tear of Morro d'Alba". It comes from the unusual characteristic of these berries that when fully ripe, release little drops of juice like tears. This is due to the skin that is thick, but very delicate, and can crack during the last steps of the ripening, especially during rainy seasons.
The Lacrima grape's ancestry is still debated in the world of vine identification, but DNA profiling has suggested links with the Aleatico grape.
The grape has been rediscovered in the last few decades, even if the existence has been declared since the 12th century. In fact, Federico Barbarossa (Holy Roman Emperor from 1155) was said to have become of fan of the wine after conquering the Castle of Morro d'Alba. Despite its ancient heritage and distinctive style, Lacrima-based wines from Morro d'Alba could do little to compete with Italy's more famous wines, such as Chianti and Barolo, which both shot to popularity and prestige in the 20th century. In fact, Lacrima di Morro d'Alba only gained official recognition in 1985 when it was granted its DOC title. This long overdue recognition may well have saved the wine from extinction; prior to 1985, plantings of Lacrima vines amounted to just 2.5 acres! But now they have expanded to over almost 100x that area.
During the 70's and 80's this grape was at risk of disappearing because the vines were replaced with more resistant and more productive varietals and often less qualitative. This ancient varietal was recovered in a 25 acres old vineyard in Morro d'Alba and it was saved by a few producers who obtained the DOC in 1985. Initially the must (freshly crushed grape juice that contains the skins, seeds, and sometimes stems) had been used for its aromatic qualities to cut other wines, but with time many wineries decided to work it in purity. Today it is one of the most considered red wines of Marche and it's a great wine for food, especially for the regional Marche dishes.
This DOC wine can be made in 3 different versions: base (pronounced BAH-zay), superiore (pronounced SOO-pair-ee-oh-ray) and passito (pronounced PAH-see-toe).
Today, most of the Lacrima di Morro wines, like "Dasempre", are fermented and aged in stainless steel, without the use the oak, to preserve the fresh aromas of the juice.
Ad alberello style trellising
Photo by Custodi
Views from vineyards of Vicari
The DOC takes the name from the central town of the wine zone, Morro d'Alba, which is located around 6 miles from the coast, on the hills between Jesi and Senigallia. Its origins go far back in time, the countryside was already populated during the Roman Empire. The name wants to indicate the "morra" or boundary stone, "sull'alba" on the hill, that used to define the borders between the two medieval counties of Senigallia and Jesi.
The winery is located in Morro d'Alba with 55 acres of vineyards. They mostly grow Verdicchio and Lacrima with a little of Sangiovese, Montepulciano and Moscato.
These hilly areas, just 12 miles from the coast at the furthest point, are positively affected by the Adriatic influences and are included in the temperate oceanic climate zone, particularly suitable for viticulture.
They have unique characteristics both as regards the soil (consisting of a matrix of pelitic-calcarenitic or pelitic-clayey rocks) and for the orography, environment and position of the territory, characterized among other things also by a long and ancient wine tradition.
Sebastiano Gulino. Photo by Cantine Gulino.
Vicari is an historical family of the town of Morro d’Alba and it has been connected to the viticulture for centuries. After long researches conducted by the family, they discovered in the public archive of the city documents related to their ancestor Fracino de Rigo, who lived in the town during the last decade of the 1400s .
Today the winery is a small, family owned company, managed by Nazzareno and his kids Vico and Valentina. The Vicari were “quelli del pozzo buono”, literally translated “those of the good well”, because in their “contrada”, there was and there still is, a big water well from which all the local people used to get drinking water fro home. This story is mentioned in all the labels like “Dasempre del Pozzo Buono”.
Nazzarenp started to bottle the first wine in 1990, 200 bottles of Verdicchio and Lacrima demonstrating the long tradition of winemaking of the family. During the 21st century the kids, Vico and Valentna, joined their father with the goal of giving continuity to their passion, contributing to the structural and technical modernization of the production and to the internalization of the brand in Europe and all over the world. Vico and Nazareno are taking care of the production while Valentina is focused on the national and international sales.
"Dasempre" Lacrima di Morro d'Alba can be paired with lots of different local Marche products, such as "salame lardellato di Fabriano" and "salame ciauscolo" (typical salame of Marche that's so soft it can be spread on bread like butter) and traditional dishes like pasta with meat sauces (chicken and beef mostly} or white meat based dishes (pork, roasted turkey, rabbit and duck). In our opinion, it would be really good with more elaborated seafood dishes like the typical "brodetto all'anconetana" or fish stews.
Click the link below to get our recipe pairing!
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